Another trip to Bohol was not even in my travel itinerary. Besides, a sojourn to Bohol a few years back had already made me a living witness to its breathtaking cone-shaped Chocolate Hills, its unpolluted waterfalls, beaches, natural and man-made forests, caves, caverns, seas, and calm rivers. Beyond these, we thought the province was more of the same.
But what brought me back to the Island of Bohol is not the known. It was the fact that many Filipinos and foreigners are still unaware of the berth of historical legacy the island of Bohol can boast of, especially in the realm of the Spanish brand of Catholicism. What is already known is interesting enough, but what has yet to be discovered remains my ultimate fascination.
The magic of my visit began with the journey itself. While still inaccessible by plane from Manila then, a one and a half-hour ride through fast crafts, with jump off points in Cebu City and a good conversation with fellow passengers, brought me to this tenth largest island in the country.
The sea trip was smooth and calm. Even before coming close to the shores of Tagbilaran City, Bohol’s capital, a showcase of terrain that is a magnificent landscape of rolling hills, rice fields, elongated sugary-white coastlines, and crystal clear sea waters greeted me along with the early-morning sun.
Bohol is like a jade brooch set on a velvet-blue sea. Its fertile land has hills that roll gently around lush forests and grassy meadows. Marine life - from schools of tiny reef fish to bigger pods of dolphins and whales - teem in the surrounding waters.
“Maajong Pag-abot!” (Welcome!) A Boholano’s version of greeting visitors and frequents hang in streamers as our boat docked in the newly-constructed port of Tagbilaran. The friendly gestures of locals selling Kalamay and peanut kisses were as warm as the early morning sun.
A friendly tricycle ride from the port area safely brought me to one of the lodging houses in the city which, although not exactly as luxurious as the lodging houses in Manila, look after their guests with a rare charm and comfortable hospitality.
Then my real adventure began.
Baclayon Church
From the developing city of Tagbilaran, a 20-minute-ride on a pedicab, and an occasional chuckle with the friendly cab driver, brought me to the serene and peaceful town of Baclayon where the oldest stone church in the Philippines is nestled - the famous Baclayon Church.
The Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception in Baclayon is obviously very old, yet stays in original condition. It is one of the best persevered Jesuit-built churches in the region, although in the 19th century, the Augustinian Recollects added a modern façade and a number of stone buildings that now surround the church.
Tracing Baclayon's well-preserved history would show that the church, then a very small chapel, was built sometime in the 16th century upon the orders of a Jewish priest. Subsequently, the religious priests and residents built a bigger church made of corals taken from the sea, which is located a few meters from the structure.
The Baclayon Church's ancient, massive edifice still retains its centuries-old architectural design. Church relics and artifacts from this early period can also be viewed at an adjacent museum where a rich collection of religious art wrought by Boholanos, ecclesiastical vestments embroidered in gold thread, and librettos of church music printed in Latin on animal skin are housed.
Also included in the collection is the ivory statue of the crucified Christ looking towards heaven; a statue of the Blessed Virgin, said to be presented by Queen Catherine of Aragon; relics of St. Ignatius of Loyola, the cuadro paintings made by the Filipino painter Liberato Gatchalian in 1859 also caught my attention.
The seashore just across the Baclayon Church was even more enchanting. With fresh air and sands untainted by commercialism, the picturesque Laya beach was so inviting that I settled down for a few minutes to enjoy the scenery and its crystal clear waters.
Albur Church
My next stop was the historical town of Alburquerque (also known as the town of Albur) where the centuries-old Sta. Monica Church is settled. A 10-minute drive is more than sufficient to reach this serene and unique place. I arrived on a hot noon-day glare but the people of Albur, who were welcoming new comers with the usual shy interest, made the rays unnoticeable.
From the old church walls to the wooden, Spanish-style convent, the impression was one of a 19th century Spanish-built church. But the Sta. Monica church was first built as a chapel to accommodate Alburanons who were attending church rites in neighboring towns.
Soon the parish priests sensed that the chapel was already too small for its numerous parishioners making them decide to build a church in place of the tiny chapel. Everyday, the place where the church was to be built was filled with people who were willing to work or donate something for its construction. What ensued was a very beautiful permanent edifice patterned after those churches in Spain and Mexico, replete with art and symbolic piety.
But what really caught my attention were the marvelous paintings on the church’s ceilings and walls, which remained intact in spite of age or of the war years. I knew from my heart that behind those church walls and paintings was a facet of history that still awaits discovery.
A short distance from the church is a yet undiscovered paradise – the Sta. Fe beach. Blue water laps at the edges of the Sta. Fe beach for as far as the eye can see. The tranquility of the shore was only disturbed by the occasional laughter of children swimming and the occasional return of fishing boats.
The beach was perfect for a short nap, but I had to move on to my next destination – the Loboc Church.
The town of Loboc, less than 30 minutes away from Albur, is known not only for its floating restaurant and captive tarsiers, but also for its beautifully preserved church established in 1602, the second oldest church in Bohol.
Just before reaching the church, I had to stop at the invitation of the calm yet exciting Loboc River where several floating restaurants carried visitors to the awesome source of the river. The water was blue. Its bed is lined by smooth white rocks and fine light-colored sand. The enchantment, however, vanished when I realized that I went there to see the church.
Loboc Church
The Loboc Church was first established in dedication to San Pedro Apostol. The church, however, was badly destroyed by fire sometime in 1660. But the parishioners did not lose hope. In 1670, the present church was built from the ruins of the old church, and it was completed in 1734.
Inside the church, remarkable native paintings on the ceilings and walls tell fascinating stories of the past. The Spanish coat of arms can also be found in the stone wall near the entrance of the convent. Snugly nestled in the compound of the ancient building of God is Museo de Loboc where the well-preserved historical artifacts and a few old statues of saints are kept. Also an interesting sight is the separate octagonal bell tower located a few meters away from the main church structure.
According to parishioners, the bell tower was purposely detached from the church after the first church was razed by fire. The priests thought of building the tower away from the church so that the bell could be used to alarm parishioners in case another fire takes place.
In Loboc, you can also admire a shameful witness of wasteful planning. Exactly next to the church is a partly finished bridge across the river. Hopefully, this bridge will never be completed since the Church will have to be destroyed to do so.
Dauis Church
Another beautiful church in Bohol is the Church of the Our Lady of the Assumption in Dauis,
on the Island of Panglao. It is located not far from the bridge that connects Panglao with Bohol.
The church is a magnificent replica of mixed styles influenced by both Byzantine and Romanesque architecture. Although no date is carved up on its walls, the look of the church, founded by the Jesuits Fr. Diego de Ayala and Joseph Gregorio, explains why it should be considered as one of the oldest churches in the country. Impressive frescoes painted by Ray Francia in 1916 also decorate the ceiling of the church.
The history of the church is a mixture of mystery and miracle. According to local folks, the church patron saint, the Virgin of the Assumption, is said to possess miraculous powers. When the town was invaded by pirates, the people of Dauis locked themselves inside the church. But they soon ran out of provisions and water.
Then a miracle occurred – a well appeared at the foot of the altar. This same well is still the main source of water for the people living close to the church, and, although the well is only a few meters from the sea, the water is absolutely fresh. The water is said to have healing powers, so, I had to fetch a bottle and took some home.
My trip back to Tagbilaran City after visiting the churches had given us a lot of new discoveries and enchantments. Indeed, scenic Bohol casts an enigmatic charm drawn from the many archaic mementos spread throughout the oval-shaped island – from unique rock formations to a 45-million-year-old mammal species, from massive stone watchtowers built in the 18th century to the historical and mysterious churches that witnessed the rise of Christianity in the country.
Safely, before sunset, I arrived at my rented room in Tagbilaran City where I took a shower and packed up for our journey back home.
Just before leaving Bohol on my way to Cebu City, thoughts of what to bring occupied my mind. Intricately printed souvenir shirts, along with the famous sweet delicacies of special Kalamay and peanut kisses, renowned throughout the country, conjures in my mind.
But perhaps the best image I saw on my departing was the lazy sunset along the newly-renovated port area – a reminder that real adventure and spiritual rediscovery could come together in little places of serenity. Like Bohol. *
How to get there:
From Manila, the capital of the Philippines, Bohol is an hour away by plane. Philippine Airlines flies direct from Manila to Bohol daily.
copyright @ Mars W. Mosqueda Jr.
Printed in Manila Bulletin, Travel & Tourism section
